LAB · Projection

From direction to the manufactured garment.

A complete collection: direction, design, tech sheet, samples and production.

From a single drop to a complete collection, with its editorial, its campaign and the space where it is sold.

What each step shows

Swipe through all four

Autumn moodboard: whitewashed stone, olive tree, fireplace, cove, knitwear and wool in earth tones
Collection direction Moodboard, colour card and fabric card before drawing anything.
Development sheet for the KN01 V-neck knitted jumper: views, details, construction and colours
Design and development Silhouette, proportion and detail approved on image before pattern-cutting begins.
Detail of cream knitwear: texture and rib in the evening light
Samples and finish Lab dips, fabric and finish approval, fitting and production sign-off.
Autumn editorial: long coat and wide trousers in cream, stone terrace above the sea
Editorial and campaign Brand universe and seasonal campaign, from the same direction as the product.
What it includes

Five blocks, one direction.

01

Collection direction

Moodboards, colour and fabrics. What comes in and what stays out is decided here, before drawing anything.

02

Collection design and development

Designs, renders and mock-ups. Silhouette, proportion and detail are approved on image before pattern-cutting begins.

03

Tech sheet and tech pack

Measurements, tolerances, pattern, seams, trims, labelling and fabric consumption. Printing, embroidery and washes with their position, size and colour. Industrialisation of the garment.

04

Samples and production control

Lab dips, fabric and finish approval, fitting, correction comments and production sign-off.

05

Editorial, campaign and space

Brand universe, campaign and retail environment, from the same direction as the product.

03 · Tech sheet and tech pack

Two documents, and a line between them.

Internal

Tech sheet

Eleven blocks

  1. 00 Identification
  2. 01 Design
  3. 02 Colourway
  4. 03 Materials
  5. 04 Trims
  6. 05 Measurements · POM
  7. 06 Construction
  8. 07 Finishing and labelling
  9. 08 Quality · AQL
  10. 09 Production and sourcing
  11. 10 Commercial and costing
Does not cross · Cost · Margin · Sourcing

To the factory

Supplier sheet

Six pages

  1. 1 Design, fabric and trims
  2. 2 Colour card
  3. 3 Measurements
  4. 4 Grading
  5. 5 Construction and lining
  6. 6 Labels
Cost, margin and sourcing never leave the house. Until a supplier is confirmed, the same sheet goes to several: whoever does not separate the two documents negotiates while showing their margin.
Where it works

On cost, time and the number of errors.

Sampling cost−70%Measured against the previous season’s sampling spend.
Physical samples per style−90%Measured per style up to production sign-off.
Campaign and editorial production−80%Measured against the cost of an equivalent photo shoot.

Every sample round costs fabric, pattern-cutting, make-up and transport, and weeks of calendar. You reach the supplier with colour, fabric and construction decided: the sample confirms, it does not explore.

The calendar is not compressed by cutting steps. It is compressed by deciding earlier, with more information to hand.

Who is accountable

Two ways of working.

With production

We manufacture with our suppliers, negotiate prices, margins and volumes, and lead production: order, in-factory quality and lead time. We answer for the garment coming out as the sheet says.

With a manual

The brand manufactures with its own suppliers. We deliver the complete sheet and the criteria to approve or reject each sample. We answer for the definition, not the execution.